We could’ve stopped with the popcorn. The super delicious, parmesan and black pepper topped truffle oil popcorn that just kept appearing in a basket at our table. I mean, stop it already.
And that was just the beginning.
I spent the weekend in Chicago with two of my very favorite friends in the world. On Saturday night, in keeping with our “we’re fancy” theme of the day, we had dinner at Graham Elliot (he appeared on episode two of Top Chef Masters but was eliminated). We arrived at the restaurant and were immediately seated. We walked through the dimly lit, trendily decorated restaurant and were seated in what appeared to be the wine room…I say this only because the back wall was just a huge wine rack.
Our waitress arrived soon after we sat down, taking our cocktail order and offering us very informed descriptions of the nightly specials and answering all of our questions (pisco, in case you are wondering, is a South American liquor distilled from grapes and developed by Spanish settlers in the sixteenth century). Turns out Graham Elliot likes to change up the menu often and to use seasonal, fresh ingredients. Thus, the menu had a cornucopia of pumpkin and squash and other warm and friendly autumnal foods.
Before leaving and letting us pore over our menus, our waitress mentioned that the Chef was trying out a new amuse bouche–foie gras lollipops dipped in orange Pop Rocks. Yes, you read that correctly. How could someone pass up a Foie-lipop? I couldn’t. And let me tell you. The foie gras was absolutely amazing–smooth and buttery and without that pungency I often find when sampling dishes of the organ meat variety. And the odd combination of the orange flavor and the popping sensation was a true experience. The orange was subtle and complemented the foie. And the popping was just fun and laughable. Though one of my fellow diners abstained from trying the “meat lollipop,” the other tasted it and enjoyed it, despite her apprehension. While it was delicious, it was much too rich and maybe a little too interesting to eat in its entirety. But I’m so glad that I tried it.

It did not take us long to decide on our meals. As a shared appetizer, we ordered the cheddar risotto. The risotto was cooked perfectly–firm without being crunchy yet also soft without being gummy. The risotto was made with Wisconsin cheddar, chunks of Granny Smith apples, Pabst glazed pearl onions, and crispy prosciutto. And the piece de resistance? It was topped with Cheez Its. While the concept of the dish was unique and, we decided, had a lot of potential, the prosciutto overpowered the cheesy goodness of the dish. I know, everyone loves prosciutto, but in this case, there may have just been too much. In the end, we felt there were too many components that just didn’t seem to come together as coherently as we had hoped.
For my personal appetizer, I ordered the sweet potato bisque, an obviously seasonal choice but a good one for the cold, Chicago night we had just come in from. The waiter set the bowl in front of me, empty but for the chipotle jam (SPICY!), garlic marshmallow (you heard me), dollops of lime creme fraiche, and the myriad corn nuts. He then proceeded to pour on top of all that goodness the bisque. It was a rich combination. Taking a little bit of every component into each bite was definitely the way to go–the garlic marshmallow melted into the bland (but not in a bad way) bisque, providing a sweet bit of a kick to the warm flavor of the sweet potato. Add to that the spiciness of the chipotle jam, the fresh citrus from the lime, and the crunch of the corn nuts and you’ve got yourself an unforgettable soup experience.
My companions had the beet salad…it was a sight to be seen. Everything we ordered was presented in such a way that we hesitated (okay, for maybe a second) before breaking into the absolute artwork put in front of us. This particular dish was comprised of roasted baby beets, hazelnut clusters (think about the clusters from Honey Bunches of Oats but substitute oats with ground hazelnuts), little balls of peppery goat cheese, micro arugula, pickled pears, and horseradish froth. Yes, friends, the whole dish came covered in horseradish flavored foam. Both of my friends greatly enjoyed the combination of flavors and agreed it was a great, light [second] start to the meal (or, I guess, third if you count the popcorn).
On to the main courses. Each of my companions ordered fish–one the Arctic char (brussels sprouts, turnip confit, mustard caviar, and cider bubbles), the other the seared Atlantic cod (smoked clams, brandade beignets (!!!), blistered corn, pancetta persillade). The fish on both plates was cooked to perfection. Each dish had such interesting components to it–the beignets were made not from dough, as you would expect, but from mashed potatoes; and the mustard caviar was an interesting and successful attempt to make a powerful flavor option look like a more pretentious add-on.
The “home run of the night,” however, was my selection: the Wagyu beef stroganoff. Now, I’ve been quite interested in the concept of food deconstruction since the Voltaggio brothers appeared on Top Chef this season. While it totally fascinates me, this approach to cooking also
completely confuses me. Sometimes, I just don’t get it. Not the case here. The dish was beyond fabulous–in presentation, in concept, in execution, in taste. The beef was melt in your mouth perfect. It sat, in thinly sliced medallions, over a puree of thinly spread forest mushrooms (think the consistency of pate). It was accompanied by two mounds of peppered spaetzle that were of lukewarm temperature (but it worked) and had a slight sweet hint to them (it kind of reminded me of the flavor of traditional, sweet, macaroni salad–the kind you can buy by the bucket load in the deli section at the grocery store). The plate was finished off with two dollops of warm creme fraiche. Each “piece” of the dish separately was a flavor dream come true. But, put all together on one forkful, you tasted the ultimate result of beef stroganoff (albeit definitely less rich and much fresher tasting than that with which you are probably familiar). Had I had double the portion that was put in front of me, I would have easily devoured it…and been more willing to share more of it with the gals.
We couldn’t leave without some dessert. We ordered two: the blood orange dreamsicle was another deconstructed creation. The “citrus supremes” were small, gelatinous, orange cubes–they reminded me (in both taste and texture) of a jello mold my mom used to make that had cool whip mixed into it. Anyway, it was good but not OTT to die for. And, honestly, the crunchy meringue that came on the side was just a little weird. Our second choice was the pumpkin pound cake. The dish had four small cubes of pound cake, candied ginger, cinnamon stick, and pieces of pie crust and whipped cream. I’m not sure why the Chef added the pie crust to the presentation but, bravo. It was my favorite part of the dish. The ginger was very strong and totally overpowered the rest of the dessert, if you allowed it to. All in all, the desserts were my least favorite part of the meal.
So there you have it…my first travelling review. If you’re ever in Chicago, I highly recommend making a reservation and heading over to GE. The amusement you’ll get just from reading through the menu and marvelling at the Chef’s creativity is enough. And, you can only eat so many pieces of deep dish pizza (in my case, two at Gino’s East. YUM.), Chicago Dogs (just one at the airport, but it was worth the wait), or bags of cheddar and caramel Garrett’s popcorn (my fingers were orange for days).
(And sorry about the quality of the pictures–I know they’re worse than usual…I didn’t want to draw attention with the flash…but go to the website to see pics, if you want).
So, I was catching up on the season premiere of
all! It was, in fact, Robert Buckley. You know, the cutie pie who played Kirby on
Art wasn’t there. Well, we assume he wasn’t. I was told that I was not allowed to ask (by my brother, per Anthony Bourdain), and I didn’t see him wandering the dining room. I really wanted him to come to our table, chat, and give us all hugs. But, alas…
avocado (perfectly ripe, smooth and buttery) and a pretty large shrimp. I enjoy a chunk of tomato or some cucumber every now and then when I have gazpacho…a little bit of a bite, if you will. So, for my taste, the soup that was set in front of me was pureed a bit too much; it would have been quite appropriate for my pre-toddler friends, those without teeth. In addition to it’s smooth quality, it also was a bit bland and needed quite a bit of help from my friend, Salt. That being said, the overall taste was very fresh and it was a great starter on a hot summer night. Best of all, it didn’t have that V-8, over processed taste that restaurant gazpachos sometimes have. The shrimp appetizer was skeweredand grilled to perfection (with a lime chile marinade) and its accompanying sides were a tasty complement. The best part of the Caeser salad was the deviled egg that accompanied it. By now, you know how I feel about the deviled egg…and this one may have been the best yet (I know, I know, I’ve said it before). The filling was creamy and smooth and had just a touch of each ingredient so that not one overpowered the other. Based on the texture of the filling and my experience with the gazpacho, I’d say Mr. Smith and his sous chefs have a very close relationship with the immersion blender.
Ok, so we also ordered an extra appetizer. We could not possibly go to Art and Soul and not sample the famous Hoe Cakes (at
The salmon, which came accompanied by pea risotto, golden beet relish, and a preserved lemon vinaigrette was tasty but unremarkable. The risotto was a vibrant green color, thanks to the fresh peas, but it was also a bit gummy. The pork chop, served with charred stone fruit relish and swimming in a sweet onion broth was the thickest chop I have ever seen–at least three inches high. The meat was perfectly cooked and tender.
And, of course, we had to get an extra side of the macaroni and cheese. How could one go to a Southern themed restaurant, where Art Smith is the chef, and not partake in the gooey deliciousness? And gooey and delicious it was. A little more “saucy” than I prefer, it was still among the best I’ve ever had (again with the hyperbole, I know). Touted as the macaroni casserole, this cheesy pasta dish was perhaps one of the best things we ate all night. Give me that and some monkey bread and I would’ve been set. The top was crunchy without having any sort of bread crumbs on top. The waiter claimed that the sauce just had cheese in it–a special cheddar from the middle east…of the United States. This is exactly how he said it, too. Though I’m not always too good at picking out flavors or figuring out technique, I’d be willing to bet that there was some cream mixed in with that middle east cheddar. Cream of the heavy variety.



straight hours. The only person who could even come close to occupying my time and helping me waste away a bad headache is Jeff Lewis. Are you guys friends? That would be bananas.
treats you with disrespect. (What was with her refusing to work upstairs with your homely assistant, Marissa, and moving her desk and Brad’s from the loft to the main room? Completely ridiculous. But way to stand firm on that one.) Sure, she pulls through in the end and gets the Dior dress delivered, or she calls Brad and makes nice after she makes him cry, but come on. Is she that indispendable? I say stick with Brad. Love. Him. She does have a good eye, though…maybe she should use that to do something about that hair of hers. And now we can move on to Rodger. Really, Rach? For someone as smart and sophisticated as you are, who spends day upon day with the fashion elite, many of whom include non-heterosexuals, how can you not see that your husband might prefer men to you. Or, frankly, anyone to you. And what’s with the extra letter in his name? Get rid of it please. Thanks. 

Those of us who partook (is that a word??) in the soup were not disappointed…it was very thick and creamy. The shavings of fresh parmesan on top were plentiful and melded well with the rich flavors of the soup. For me, while the soup was tasty, it was also a bit bland. I used a good amount of [clumpy, clumpy] salt to enhance the taste. One thing I noticed, perhaps because I am not a fan, was the hint of rosemary. I did not think a soup such as this was an appropriate place to showcase this most vile herb, but it was subtle enough that it wasn’t overpowering. Of course, if you have an aversion to it, you’re going to taste it more than others (my “others” didn’t taste it at all).
asparagus. And some sauce that made it yellow. (Note: I now realize that I should’ve been aware (because I’m not that dumb) that the yellow was saffron. I also know it is the most expensive spice on Earth. Thanks for sharing yours with us, Il Fornaio). The risotto was cooked to the right consistency and wasn’t sticky, mushy, or overly al dente. Very few leftovers made their way home.
My tagliatelle was tasty. The ratio of sauce to pasta was perfect, something that is difficult when both the sauce and the pasta are of such distinct textures and are both quite heavy. With a sprinkling of freshly grated parmesan, this was a delicious and unregretful choice. Again, though, the selection, at least for my taste, needed a little help from my salt shaker.
Or what was left of it.
I mean, come on. I know it sounds disgusting. But that combination was so interesting and such a surprise to your tastebuds that you have no reason but to just revel in its authenticity and uniqueness. And the flavor. By God, the flavor. If a peanut butter and bacon sandwich is good enough for Elvis, a chocolate cupcake with peanut butter and bacon icing is good enough for me. You like the mixing of savory and sweet (think chocolate covered pretzels, for example)? Then this is the cupcake for you. The peanut butter icing, by virtue of its main component, was not too sugary to begin with–which is good, since the cake part took the cake (haha) in the sweet category. Thus, when you mixed in the bacon it just added a subtlety to the icing. Don’t get me wrong, the taste of bacon was quite obvious (and happily shocking) but it melded so well with the minimalist peanut butter icing and the cake. And then on top of the cake in just the right proportion…heaven.



